The end of the story is the most interesting part, so I’ll start from the beginning of the end and work my way. Let me feed the beast: I disembarked in Shanghai dirty sweaty probably stink like trash bin juice. Walk 25 miles to baggage claim motors whir conveyor belt starts bag ejected from dark tunnel. Head for the Maglev… the high speed train that carries a person from the airport into central Shanghai. The final train for the day had departed 20 minutes ago. I examine the bus information screen in search of another economical way to make my way and find it confusing. ”Hmmm… Just take a taxi… Take a blow on cash and get it over with… You need sleep.” I usually pounce on these ideas that pop into my head; Follow the stream. A bad feeling usually aids with navigation. Like when, last night, I was lead into a dimly lit stairwell following a guy who claimed he could get me to town for 200 Yuan. When the stairway, however, lead me into a back alley where an unmarked car was waiting with the words ‘lets rob tourists’ written on the windshield, I experienced one of these bad feelings, and hastily made my way back upstairs…
Speaking of spontaneously sprouting ideas, I had one the day before I left Chiang Mai. Sick, as I was, of riding on the backpacker friendly ‘VIP’ busses that take one straight to Khao San road in Bangkok, I thought it a good idea to spend a bit more and take a real VIP bus. One with plenty of leg room to accommodate lankiness. And what a great choice it was! I’ve never slept better during transport. My arrival in Bangkok the next morning was followed by a day of laziness in the wonderful Thai Cozy House, where I received a discount because it was my fourth time staying there in two months. Hot shower TV eat coffee coca cola internet off to China. Arrive in Shenzhen, China wandering around with a similarly lanky individual from Australia named Phil. Phil is recovering from Typhoid he picked up in Pakistan… he’s tired… we’re staying at the same hostel… we wander through late night China red green neon doing our best to decipher what looks like Chinese to me. The metro is closed, let’s just take a taxi. (This taxi thing seems to be a recurring copout, or viable option if you prefer, in the labyrinth of Chinese symbols). Hostel is comfy… meet creepy sleazy ‘English teacher out of a job…’ sleep… eat… figure out how to get to Shanghai. Mr. Ryan Daly booked a flight with Air China and the next morning he leaves the hostel with a smile blazing on his face, clueless of the nightmare that lies ahead.
…back upstairs and off to find a taxi stand where one can find a legitimate ride into town. I arrive at the taxi stand and the windshield says ’safe, government provided service vee-hickle.’ Talk to driver. Words fail to function… sounds like Chinese to me…
Me: ”I’m going to West Nanjing Road, Shanghai.”
Driver: ”Nanjing! Nanjing!”
Me: ”Yes, West Nanjing Road.”
A man who speaks a bit of Engrish comes to join the deep conversation:
Engrish Man: “Where you go?”
Me: ”West Nanjing Road, Shanghai.”
Engrish Man: sounds like Chinese to me…
Driver: “unknown, OK OK OK Nanjing! Nanjing! Nanjing!, unknown.”
Me: “Yes, precisely good sir!”
Engrish Man, I thank you… Off we go speeding into the night. Light a cigarette, shrug. There’s a slight hint of a bad feeling, but I’ve grown used to this in China. Bad feelings are perpetual when communication is sick in bed. Nanjing Nanjing Nanjing, here I come…
Walk to Shenzhen metro go to Luo Hu station find ticket booth for Guangzhou buy ticket hop train sit relax hot sweaty maybe stinky keep arms tight against body Guangzhou looks ugly. Remnants of 70’s and 80’s Chinese gaudy neon architecture moldy from humid years. Someone said other parts of the city are nice. Train tracks’ll do that. Arrive Guangzhou taxi airport check-in nice easy trip is going incredibly smooth. Take some photos, kill time. The flight boarded just a bit late and we sit. An hour passes and Chinese start to become vocal (not that they aren’t always vocal). A man shouts something, people laugh… Other men join, sound rather angry, people laugh more, I wonder. Sounds like Chinese to me. Flight leaves just over an hour late. On to Wenzhou for an interesting connector.
…Another cigarette. Taxi meter runs moon is out silhouettes of mountains pass. Peaceful outside bad feelings continue breath relax. I point forward… “Shanghai?” Driver points forward… “Shanghai!” Relax close the ashtray take a nap. Meter runs…
Arrive Wenzhou hurry! Small town airport no English. Mr. Daly doesn’t know what time his connecting flight to Shanghai leaves so he’s in a rush to check in. But first he has to wait for his bag to arrive, make his way once again through the labyrinth. Motors whir conveyor belt starts bag arrives mouse completes maze check in re-check bag. The flight doesn’t leave for another two hours. Should arrive in Shanghai at 8:30pm… Exactly 13 hours after the journey began. Wait coca cola potato chip pepsi green tea cigarette smokey room read eat papaya. Waiting room austere echoes children yell people talk loud airport announcements cloaked in cacophony. Wouldn’t work well as a recording studio. Sounds like Chinese to me. Boarding time comes and goes… and goes. Board when I should be in Shanghai. The flight is quick, smooth. Reading is accomplished… Arrive Shanghai, begin the night.
We’ve come to the place where two points meet. If you are confused, try again. I sit confident in the back of a taxi that I’m heading to Shanghai after my brief episode of pointing straight ahead and saying ‘Shanghai?’ When Driver pointed straight and shouted a confirming ‘Shanghai!’ things seemed alright. Sleep now… wake up soon. I awake on a dark highway. A glance at the meter shows 500 Yuan. Nervous light cigarette only 900 on me too dark wrong way pick skin around fingers bleed. Meter runs. Drivers eyes droop. Once again… “Shanghai?… City!… Nanjing?” And the driver replies with the affirmative point ahead and say ‘Nanjing.’ Now, I knew the ride would be expensive, but I never thought it would be more than maybe 500 Yuan. I justified this in my mind… “The Maglev train travels at over 300 km/h and it took nearly an hour right? Maybe less… or was it more. I can’t remember… it was something close to an hour, I’m sure of it. So… that should be around 300 km then… I guest this ride should be a considerable distance. But why the hell would Shanghai’s airport be three hours away from Shanghai?” So on and so on driving myself crazy. I wait. Driver grows sleepy… I’m sleepy… half sleeping. Wake with a scare as Driver dozes and heads slightly off the road. Wide awake now… car begins to feel like jail… a pimple is born beneath the surface of my right upper lip. Fed by stress, anxiety. I can almost feel it bubbling to the surface and rearing its white head.
Me: “You OK man?”
Driver: ?????
Me: “Pull over and sleep if you have to, man.”
Driver: Sounds like Chinese…
Me: shrug.
I was offering all the hand gestures I could muster, but he kept right on. Unsure eyes on the rearview watch his eyes make sure he doesn’t doze wait it’ll be over soon. Three hours after leaving the airport, we arrive at a toll. Driver says ‘Nanjing.’ I say ‘Shanghai’ and reach for the map in my bag. Once the map is revealed and I show him West Nanjing Road, he erupts. The dashboard takes a healthy beating and words are yelled (curses, I’m sure… Sounded like Chinese to me). So there Mr. Daly sits, in Nanjing, China, back seat of a cab, a meter reading 1300 Yuan and a tired grouchy pissed off Chinese taxi driver pounding on the dash. You’ve got to be shitting me…
Through the toll turn around back through the toll back on the highway heading to Shanghai only 3 more hours watch rear view driver sleepy me too smoke bite chew skin nail bleed. We stopped off at a rest area to pick up something to drink and go to the bathroom. Driver was really a nice guy, it turns out. He offered me cigarettes and offered to buy me some tea. We smiled at each other and laughed knowing how terrible this miscommunication mistake was. Laughing was all one could do really. Back in the car refreshed ready to go take the opportunity to sleep. I slept for about an hour and a half and woke up with about 100 kilos to go. How did I manage to sleep with my life in danger? Good question. When I woke our Driver was getting pretty sleepy again. Swerve left right droop lean adjust lights window radio cellphone mirrors. The ride got to the point where I was so afraid… I told him I had to use the toilet. When we pulled over, I motioned to him to go to sleep for awhile… at least ten minutes or something. He agreed shut his eyes my eyes shut trucks being worked on humid air wrenches clank. After five minutes, he made some kind of noise and rose from what didn’t seem like any kind of sleep to me. Cab fills with the smell of Tiger Balm as he rubs his fingers on his temples, takes a pull from a tea bottle, and heads back to the road. The balm wore off quickly and the nap apparently didn’t help. Driver was dozing dozing dozing and I was watching with much anxiety. Good thing I was: Flying down the left lane of the highway, a truck in front of us in the right lane. Our good driver dozes and starts to merge right. Just a lane change right? Over into the middle lane truck is getting close. Driver doesn’t stop merging heading straight for the back of the truck. WHOA WHOA WHOA WHOA WHOA WHOA! I’m yelling driver wakes up wheel jerks adrenaline rush rips. Get me out of here. The sun is about to rise. That should keep him awake and it did. It was absolutely beautiful, by the way… On we go into Shanghai to West Nanjing Road. Following my 6.5 hour metered road trip, 2800 Yuan is what the screen reads… or about $380. Argue a bit not much you almost killed me hand motions emulate car crash wrong direction to say the least. A sum of 1000 Yuan is agreed upon. Still ripped off… it’s all Chinese to me.
Hand over the cash driver offers to take me wherever I need to go… I tell him I’ll walk. I walk beautiful morning Shanghai alive people running dancing music tai chi pork chicken duck laden motorbikes whiz. I walk and walk bags are heavy sweat pours finally reach familiar area. Made it to Charlie’s exactly 24 hours after leaving Shenzhen. Telling stories beats sleep… but sleep comes eventually.
Tomorrow it’s back to the airport and I see no taxis. The pimple on my right upper lip is laughing at me, telling me it’s time to go home. And I’m laughing a bit myself.